Damn those dams!

Today was the best day sofar! And it didn't even involve a woman. Just one man, the sun and a bicycle.

I rented a bike to make a tour across both Aswan dams. The old one and the high one. After some kilometers I decided to ask directions. First I tried a soldier. He didn't know. You're not from Aswan? I guessed. He smiled and said No, from Cairo. I kind of thought it would be like that. In the Sovjet Union they did the same. Place your soldiers as far away from home. Divide and conquer. In countries where they have social instability they often do that. He called another man to the aid. He had no idea. And another... the same. I went back a little to where there were more people. A group of young men, they pointed back to Aswan. Then I asked two man in a pick up truck. They pointed in another direction, down this road they said, the dam is just 200 meters from here!!!

And it was! And as I kind of feared it is closed for cyclists. There were two soldiers at my end of the dam, and some other men helped in telling me that I couldn't cross by bike. They all just said: No, no. Closed. You can't go. That was all English they knew. As there would be more soldiers at the other side, there was no hope of a good bribe either. So they stopped a taxi, and I crossed in the back of a pick up. At the other side I continued... A beautiful road with oleander all the way up to the next dam. Behind that thin line of oleander was the desert. The bike I rented wasn't really the best I ever saw, there was a crack at the base of the steer, that made it kind of wobbly when I used force on it. So I walked uphill when it was steep. Not just because of the steer by the way.

Then I came to the high dam. From far I saw the Sovjet-Egyptian monument. After everybody else withdrew their financing for the dam after 1956 it was the Sovjet Union who came to rescue. And of course there would be a monument. Again I was not allowed on the dam by bike. Some soldiers, a lot of bystanders, some men that worked there as it seemed. Everybody had something to say, but none of them spoke any English at all. I really hate it when I can't do something and no one can explain to me why. (at another occasion one of the bystanders explained to me why: because he is a policeman...) Well I just had to catch another taxi, no problem. But first I wanted to see the monument. After all its there. Right behind the visitors centre. I walked passed that, accompanied by one man at first and four men a little later. It was not to their liking that I did not go in to drink something. I want to see the monument I explained. I reached it, although somehow they didnt want me there at all. Since none of them spoke any English I let myself go and started lecturing them. Carefully so I wouldnt get angry for real, and avoiding the use of the word stupid..... that is a word they would know. I think I even dragged the friendship of the Sovjet people into it, and how they rewarded that by treating their monument like this. Walking back to the road we passed the Cafe again. I refused to go in and have a drink. I explained to them that if they would make such a fuss about everything I would not honour that by spending my money here. I really had a good time. Then I put up my thumb and the first car took me across.... without taking any money.

At the other side is the ferry landing from and to Sudan. That is where I will leave the 18th. The gate was open, and five man sat around. Soldiers and others. Its closed they said, just one day its open. The cafe was closed too, even though there were two people there. The railway station has its last stop at the ferry dock. There wasn't much happening there either. So I went on. There were some houses and I stopped to buy some yoghurt, chips and juice for my lunch. The guy in the grocery store charged me much less then in the cities.

As I left those few houses a long road lay before me.... I asked a man how far to Aswan? 12 he thought. Ok.... could be about it, my guess was 10. And is there something before Aswan, or is it all desert? All desert he said. Alright.... a deep breath, a drink of water and there we go. Damn this really was a great day. Back in Aswan I decide to bring the bike back while its still in one piece. I've got a few hours more, but a shower and a nap appeal to me more now.

This evening something funny happened to me. Every time I walk along the Nile there are carriages with horses. They just don't stop asking me if I want to make a ride. So today I tried a new approach. I tried to explain to the driver that as I am alone I would not make a ride in a carriage. That that would be something romantic to do with a girl. That wasn't really a smart move of me... he now proposes to me, to try an Egyptian man instead! He has a big one he adds. I just laugh at him, but I think I won't try to explain too much anymore.